Then it was off to the biggest adventure yet, the Ha Gian loop. The Ha Gian loop was a motorcycle tour that takes you through northern Vietnam and right up to the border with China. All the backpackers I met raved about it and everyone said it was a must do. But the only way to do it was on a motorbike. Although I had paid to have a driver, I was terrified and had read online it was dangerous. This wasn't helped by someone returning from the tour to Ha Gian, covered in blood due to an accident. But, I held on to the fact that a couple of friends had done it recently who said they felt completely safe and everyone had said how breathtakingly beautiful it was. Plus, the owner said that it was almost always the boys that were driving themselves that came off and usually on the third day as they became overly confident.
After a night's sleep at the tour company's accommodation (which was a room full of matresses, for about 40 of us) it was time for the briefing. I was more nervous now, what was I thinking? My friend Dale had said it would be an adventure. I didn't want adventure, I just wanted a cup of tea.
Anyway, there was about 70 of us organised into 6 groups, with most people opting to have a driver. I was paired up with a guy called Huy and in my group were 5 Dutch, an Aussie lass, a couple of Germans and another English gal. As soon as I got on the bike I felt at ease. Huy has been doing this job for a living for a few years so dodged every pothole and handled different terrain with ease.
It's quite well organised too in that you travel in convoy with your group, with the most experienced driver leading and although all the groups are stopping at the same places, it's staggered so never felt too croweded. It also meant that it was easy to become friends with your group too. The views were AMAZING! I'm lucky to have travelled a lot, but this was the most beautiful landscape I've ever seen. It was pretty cold up there (though nothing a seasoned cyclist can't handle) and we were in the clouds at points, so bought a pair of plastic trousers and rain cover which did a good job of keeping the wind off, even if I looked a bit silly. I also realised why the only way to do it really was by motorbike. The area has only been opened to tourists in the last 10 years, and the roads aren't wide enough to handle two lanes of cars really. They are building the roads in parts at the moment, so in a couple of years time, it'll be flooded with tourists, but for now it's just a few hundred (generally young) back packers. Plus we encountered a couple of landslides that only a bike could get round. As well as incredible views, on our second day, they took us all the way up to the border with China which was cool. Apparently there never used to be a fence, but you could see it now, weaving it's way through the mountains for thousands of miles.
The homestays on the tour were mixed, the first night was luxury with only 7 of us per room. The second night was back to 20, was absolutely freezing as you were literally sleeping in a barn with the doors swinging open (luckily I nabbed a spare duvet) and a rat paying a visit in the night (some idiot had left food out). You could opt for a private room though.
The food was great, lots of fresh air had given me my appetite back. They would also bring round "happy water" before our meal, some sort of rice wine/vodka and encouraged us to drink lots through complicated Viet drinking songs. I was able to restrain myself to a few as the thought of being hungover on a bike was too much. After dinner, they'd whip out the karaoke machines (I can't empathise how much they love Karaoke in Vietnam) and get the disco going.
All too soon, it was time to head back to Ha Gian. It was tempting to extend to do a forth day like the rest of my group was doing, but I wanted a recovery day in Hanoi. Plus, excitingly, I was having dinner in Ha Gian with my friend Tom from BBC. It was amazing and surreal to be hanging out with him in this random town in Northern Vietnam.
Back on the sleeper bus to Hanoi, I was actually starting to enjoy these lying down jouneys. We arrived at about 2am and after some mild harassment from taxi drivers, the backpackers on my bus formed a pack and moved away before ordering our Grabs (Asia's answer to Uber). Grab is great as a solo female traveller, as you are tracked your whole journey and there are heaps of safety features.
I'd booked myself a hotel room for my last few nights in Hanoi and it was so nice to sleep in a warm, dark, silent room. I visisted the Women's museum the next day which was cool.
Then the day after, I was booked onto a Ha Long bay cruise. Ha Long bay was ok. It was beautiful, but an absolute tourist trap like some sort of black mirror-esk nightmare (I had been warned about this). You couldn't move for tourists in a couple of places, but did see some cool caves, do some kayaking, swimming and climb up to a view point. It was an ok day out, but with a 3 hour journey each way, plus boat travel and bad time keeping, we were only really there for about 4 hours before it got dark.
My final day in Hanoi was pleasant one. I went to train street, a street where railway line passes through in close proximity (like 30cm) to shops and restaurants. I had been told that restaurant owners would wait for you by the barriers (you could only enter if you were going to one, to control numbers presumably). One guy offered to take me to his restaurant, then indicated to a tuktuk and asked for the equivalent of a tenner. Which is A LOT for Vietnam. I should've said no, but I was running out of time before next train and couldn't be bothered to argue. He cycled us in a big loop, but did take me to a restaurant to be fair. He didn't work for them though and owners saud he'd probably be arrested if caught. One of the benefits of a strict Vietnam is that they have lots of rules about how to treat tourists and conning them is a big no no. I'd missed the train, but suprisingly there was another in about 20mins (they are only a few times a day). Another tourist recommended that I sat upstairs so I would get an unobstructed view. Which was true, but then I could only see the roof. It was actually mad how close it was.
No time for round two, I went on a big old walk. The sites were ok, but not interesting enough to write about. I had wanted to go to the Ho Chi Minh museum, but it was shut, and I didn't fancy queuing to see his dead body at the nearby mausoleum.
That evening, I headed over to Dale's for an evening of Jackbox games with his mates. Jackbox is a computer game you all play through your phones that's projected onto the wall/tv and involves writing jokes or drawing and is a firm favourite with my mates in Bristol. It was so nice to do something normal.
Then on to Thailand!
Ha Gian Loop